With access by silver foiled invitation, LCF took over the Vaults of the RSA (Royal Society of Arts) for their debut stand-alone menswear show. With London Collections: Men well underway, featuring shows by LCF alumni JW Anderson and Baartmans and Siegel, as well as Joseph Turvey’s stand at the hospital club, the LCFM show presents more emerging talent from it’s menswear designers.
Professor Frances Corner OBE, Head of LCF, explains that Asger Juel Larsen, Domingo Rodriguez, Matteo Molinari and Oliver Ruuger were chosen because “the selection panel and I all felt that they could cope with the pressure, that if people wanted to take them up and start buying their collections they would be able to cope. They’ve all got a strong sense of who they are, a strong sense of what their work is about and also the capacity to produce and deliver.”
Guests were greeted by a glass of champagne and an enchanting installation displaying some of Oliver Ruuger’s designs. His intricately detailed briefcases were truly awe-inspiring and it was clear that his gentlemanly accessories were heavily influenced by the great British heritage that this country has to offer.
Models walked through the black sand covering the floor of the main vault as they wore designs by Asger Juel Larsen, Domingo Rodriguez and Matteo Molinari. All three collections were strong and powerful and this was reflected by the shows location – it was a show that required such an atmospheric venue.
Asger Juel Larsen’s collection was a playful mix of the romantic and the gothic that combined a great deal of black with a turquoise skull print and accents of yellow. It was a collection that felt relaxed and effortlessly cool, conveying an attitude that fashion shouldn’t be taken quite so seriously.
The designs of Domingo Rodriguez had a far more casual feel about them, but yet still felt carefully tailored. With an emphasis on cut and quality, this streamlined simplicity provided a sporty look that also had a softness about it at the same time. The inclusion of a structured hard shell backpack reflected Domingo’s ethos of tailored simplicity because although it is essentially a simple design, it still demanded our attention.
Matteo Molinari’s attention to detail provided a catwalk collection perfect for the metrosexual man. A combination of sharp tailoring, white shirts with perfectly neat collars and exquisite chunky knits, Matteo also wasn’t afraid to make a bold use of colour, choosing red as one of the dominant colours of the collection.
The show has provided an excellent opportunity to showcase the great talent that LCF has to offer and, as Frances said, it is “an opportunity to showcase the fact that at LCF, menswear is not just about the clothing. We have done a lot to support these designers in preparing their collections, costing them, pricing them, making sure they’ve got the right production set up and I can’t think of anywhere else that can do that to the level which we can.”
- Words by Nicole Campanaro, BA (Hons) Fashion Journalism
- Images by Alex Maguire
- Read the twitter buzz #LCFM
- Read LCFM press coverage
- Watch the BBC London news item
- Watch the show again
- MA Fashion Design Technology, Menswear
- BA Fashion Design Technology: Menswear
- With thanks to – Lee Lapthorne, doll, numbernine, Kin Design, DSA, Dr Haushcka, TIGI and Elgar Johnson at i-D.